Joe's Vintage Guitars - Preserving History One Guitar at a Time

ES Family Guide

Gibson ES-335 vs. ES-345 vs. ES-355: What’s The Difference?

A clear comparison of Gibson’s three center-block thinline models, using guitars I’ve handled and photographed.

Full front view of a sunburst 1965 Gibson ES-335 standing in its case
1965 ES-335
Sunburst 1963 Gibson ES-345 standing in its case
1963 ES-345
Cherry 1959 Gibson ES-355 with gold hardware and Bigsby vibrato
1959 ES-355

The Short Answer

The Three Models At A Glance

The ES-335 is the simpler model, the ES-345 adds gold hardware, split-parallelogram inlays, stereo wiring and a Varitone, and the ES-355 is the most highly appointed version. All three use Gibson’s semi-hollow construction with a solid center block.

Those are the broad differences. Production changes, repairs and converted wiring can blur the clues, so I identify the model from the complete guitar rather than one feature.

The original features that most often separate the three models
ModelIntroducedFingerboard And InlaysHardwareOriginal Electronics
ES-3351958Rosewood; dots, then blocksNickel or chromeMono; no Varitone
ES-3451959Rosewood; split-parallelogram inlaysGoldStereo with Varitone
ES-3551958Ebony; large pearl blocksGoldMono without Varitone, or stereo with Varitone

Visual Identification

See The Differences Side By Side

These are guitars I’ve handled and photographed. The close views show why the inlays, controls, headstock and trim are more useful than body color when you’re trying to separate the three models.

Fingerboards And Inlays

The fingerboard is one of the quickest visual clues. An individual year can change the details, but each model has its own basic treatment.

Rosewood fingerboard and dot inlays on a 1959 Gibson ES-335ES-335
Rosewood with dots on this 1959 ES-335. Small blocks replaced the dots during 1962.
Split-parallelogram inlays on a 1963 Gibson ES-345ES-345
The split-parallelogram inlays are the clearest fingerboard clue on an ES-345.
Ebony fingerboard with pearl block inlays on a 1959 Gibson ES-355ES-355
The ES-355 uses an ebony board with large pearl blocks and more elaborate binding.

Controls And Tailpieces

Tailpieces can vary by year and option, so the controls and surrounding evidence need to be read with them.

Nickel ABR-1 bridge and stop tailpiece from a 1962 Gibson ES-335ES-335
A straightforward mono ES-335 has no Varitone. This 1962 example has nickel hardware and a stop tailpiece.
Varitone controls and gold stop tailpiece on a 1963 Gibson ES-345ES-345
The six-position Varitone, stereo jack and gold hardware identify the ES-345 configuration.
Gold Bigsby and controls on a mono 1959 Gibson ES-355ES-355
This 1959 ES-355 is the mono version: four knobs and a toggle, with no Varitone switch.

Headstock And Trim

The level of ornament rises from the ES-335 through the ES-355. Changed hardware is common, but the original woodwork and binding usually remain visible.

Cutaway horn and simple body trim on a 1966 Gibson ES-335ES-335
The ES-335 carries the simplest body trim. This 1966 also shows the more pointed mid-1960s horn shape.
Crown headstock inlay and Stereo truss-rod cover on a 1966 Gibson ES-345ES-345
The ES-345 uses the Gibson crown inlay; this example also has its Stereo truss-rod cover.
Bound ES-355 headstock with split-diamond inlay and gold tunersES-355
The bound headstock and large split-diamond inlay mark the ES-355 as the top model.

What The Three Models Share

The ES-335, ES-345 and ES-355 have a laminated maple thinline body with a solid center block. The block reduces feedback and gives the bridge and pickups a firm mounting point while the hollow wings keep the guitar lighter and more resonant than a solid body.

Because the basic outline is so similar, a distant photograph can make the three models look nearly identical. My 1966 Gibson ES-335 authentication guide shows how body shape and appointments can place a guitar in its production period, while fingerboard inlays, headstock trim, hardware color and controls usually provide the fastest answer here.

Identify The Model Before The Year

I first establish which model the guitar was built as. Then I compare its neck, body shape, serial number, pickups and hardware with the changes Gibson made during that model’s production. Gibson production and shipping totals provide useful context, but they can’t identify an individual guitar.

Pickup details can narrow the period and reveal expensive changes. My Gibson PAF and Patent Number pickup guide explains the decals, covers, solder joints and other clues I check without taking a valuable pickup apart.

For the most highly appointed version, my 1959 Gibson ES-355 history and value guide examines the mono version, gold hardware, Bigsby and trim.

  • Dot or block inlays usually point toward an ES-335.
  • Split-parallelogram inlays, gold hardware and a Varitone are characteristic ES-345 features.
  • An ebony fingerboard, large pearl blocks, a split-diamond headstock and more elaborate binding point toward an ES-355.
  • A changed pickguard, tailpiece or wiring harness shouldn’t outweigh the construction and trim that remain.

Wiring Is Part Of The Identity

The ES-345 was built around a stereo Varitone circuit, which I cover in more detail in my in-depth Gibson ES-345 guide. ES-355s were offered in both mono and stereo Varitone versions, while the ES-335 was the straightforward mono model without a Varitone.

Many stereo guitars were later converted to mono for easier use. A good conversion can make sense for a player, but the original harness and removed parts still matter when the guitar is appraised. I wouldn’t change the wiring simply to prepare a guitar for sale.

From My Shop

More Real Examples

Year-to-year changes can be just as important as the model name. Each photograph opens the related year or model article.

Keep Researching

Further Reading On Gibson ES Guitars

I don’t yet have a full model guide for every ES model. The ES-345 has a complete model guide, and the photographs above link to the ES-335 and ES-355 year-specific articles I’ve finished.

The People Behind The Guitars

Original-Owner ES Guitar Stories

Specifications tell me what a guitar is. Ownership stories explain where it has been. These ES guitars came to me with direct family history, period photographs or memories from the people who owned them.

Keep The ES-330 Separate

The ES-330 shares the double-cutaway thinline appearance, but it’s fully hollow and doesn’t have the center block used in the ES-335, ES-345 and ES-355. Its neck joint, pickups and construction make it a different family for identification and valuation.

What To Photograph Before Asking For A Value

You don’t need to take the guitar apart. Clear photographs of the visible features are enough to begin a free vintage Gibson guitar appraisal.

  • Full front and back of the guitar
  • Front and back of the headstock
  • Serial number and the label inside the body
  • Fingerboard inlays, controls and output jack
  • Pickups, bridge, tailpiece and tuners
  • Case, tags, receipts and every loose or replaced part

Have One To Sell?

Have An ES-335, ES-345 Or ES-355 To Sell?

If you’re ready to sell your vintage Gibson directly to me, you don’t need to identify every detail before contacting me. Send clear photographs and anything you know about the guitar. I’ll examine it myself, explain what I see and let you decide whether an offer makes sense.

Common Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

What’s The Difference Between A Gibson ES-335, ES-345 And ES-355?

The ES-335 is the simplest of the three. The ES-345 adds split-parallelogram inlays, gold hardware, stereo wiring and a Varitone. The ES-355 adds an ebony fingerboard, large pearl blocks, a split-diamond headstock and more elaborate binding.

Which Gibson ES Models Have A Varitone?

The ES-345 was built with a six-position Varitone and stereo wiring. ES-355s were made in both mono and stereo Varitone versions. A standard ES-335 doesn’t have a Varitone.

How Can I Tell An ES-355 From An ES-345?

Look first at the fingerboard and headstock. An ES-345 usually has split-parallelogram inlays and a crown headstock inlay. An ES-355 has an ebony fingerboard with large pearl blocks, a bound headstock with a split-diamond inlay and more elaborate body binding.

Is An ES-355 Better Than An ES-335?

The ES-355 was the more expensive and highly appointed model, but that doesn’t automatically make it the better guitar for every player. Originality, condition, year, wiring and personal preference all matter.

Which Is More Valuable: An ES-335, ES-345 Or ES-355?

The model name alone doesn’t determine value. The year, finish, originality, condition, factory hardware, wiring, repairs and ownership history all matter. A desirable, original ES-335 can be worth more than a later or heavily changed ES-355.

Are The ES-335, ES-345 And ES-355 The Same Size?

They belong to the same center-block thinline family and generally share the same body shape and dimensions. Their fingerboards, inlays, binding, hardware and electronics are different, and some construction details changed during production.

Can An ES-345 Or ES-355 Be Converted From Stereo To Mono?

Yes. Many stereo ES-345s and ES-355s were converted to mono so they’d be easier to use with a standard amplifier. A conversion can affect originality and collector value, so keep the original harness and every removed part with the guitar.